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Field notes · written after walking, not after Googling

Nepal trekking guides from the field

Season-by-season route advice from the Kathmandu ops desk — permit changes, conditions and post-walk dispatches. Dated, signed.

4 notesUpdated weekly in season
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Latest · tsum-valley

Tsum Valley permits in 2026: TVRAP + MCAP + the two cash fees at Jagat

What you'll pay for the TVRAP + MCAP + the new 2024 Chumnubri + USD 10 trail-development fee. Agency timeline, the March 2026 solo update, and the 5-permits-quoted scam.

Anjana Shrestha · Ops Lead, Kathmandu · 27 May 2026 · 8 min

Sleeping at Mu Gompa monastery (3,700 m): the trek's defining cultural night

What it's like to sleep at an active Tibetan-Buddhist monastery 4 days walk from the nearest road. The 05:30 morning puja, the dining-hall yak-dung stove, the Dhephyudonma acclim hike, the donation protocol.tsum-valley · 6 min24 May 2026

The 12-day Tsum Valley itinerary: standard pace with Mu Gompa acclim

Day-by-day plan for the standard 12-day Tsum Valley trek — walking hours, altitude gain, lodge names, NPR prices. The Mu Gompa acclim day + Dhephyudonma side hike that makes 12 days the sweet spot.tsum-valley · 6 min21 May 2026

Tsum Valley solo trekking in 2026: the March rule change explained

TAAN's March 22, 2026 update lets solo foreigners get the TVRAP. What's changed, what hasn't (the guide is still mandatory), check-post enforcement at Lokpa, and the partner-search option.tsum-valley · 5 min18 May 2026

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